Geography
The Hungarian vineyards are situated in
the Carpathian basin. The continental climate is prevalent, while the influence
of the Atlantic Ocean, and in the southern wine districts, the Mediterranean is
also felt. The climate between regions and across years may vary a lot as a
result. Although mean annual temperature is 10.5 °C, and mean average rainfall
is 600 mm, there are significant variances
Climate and the
Land
The entire territory of Hungary is inside the vine-growing zone.
This fact along with the special soil and climatic qualities of various regions
explains why a small country like Hungary can boast 22 strictly delimited
quality wine districts. In fact, one of the most amazing facts about Hungarian
wines is their great variety: Hungary belongs to the few wine-growing countries
in the world producing the entire range of classic wine styles including whites,
rosés, full bodied reds and natural sweet wines (botrytis whites). These
different wines are made from an impressive range of grape varieties
characterised by a certain equilibrium between international and local
varieties. Hungary is often considered as a white wine country.
In terms of
absolute quantity this is true. 75% of wine produced is white, but recently it
is red wines of Szekszard, Villany, and Eger that have gained fame. More and
more red wine varieties are being planted as quality improved and demand
grows.
Although there are twenty two designated regions we will concentrate
on the following that are the most significant.
GRAPES FOR WHITE WINE
Furmint
Yellow with greenish tints,
with a bouquet reminiscent of ripe apples in youth. After ageing in wood it
develops an aroma of honey and walnuts. Rich in extract, it makes a heady,
robust wine with accented acids. It requires ageing and is suitable for keeping.
It is commonly known as the grape used for Tokaj Aszú. The principal growing
areas are Tokaj and Somlo.
Hárslevelu ('linden leaf')
A late
ripening variety that has a thin skin and therefore ideal for Botrytis infection
(in the Tokaj region). Greenish yellow with a fruity, light aroma. Faintly spicy
on the palate, it offers more elegant acids than Furmint, and some tartness in
the finish. The resident grape of Hegyalja, Somlo, and the Villany-Siklos
region.
Juhfark ('sheepstail')
The name comes from the shape of
the grape's clusters. It makes a straw-yellow wine with a restrained bouquet.
Well defined acids and tartness on the palate. It is an uncomplex wine that
improves greatly with time an ages gracefully. Unique to the Somlo district and
when good wine is made from it, it is a real revelation.
Leányka
('maiden')
Originally a Transsylvanian variety, yielding a with an
understated aroma and for the most part soft acids, which is ideal for
conversations. It is only suitable for long-term aging in exceptional years. The
Eger region is one of the main growing areas.
Olaszriszling ('Italian or
Welschriesling')
Related to Rhine Riesling only by name, this grape
produces a straw-blond wine, occasionally with flashes of green. Not really rich
in aroma, but the big wines have a bouquet reminiscent of mignonette. Invariably
milder than Rhine Riesling, it has refined acids that are highly dependant on
location and the year. It often has bitter almonds in the aftertaste. The best
wines come from Csopak in the northern Balaton.
Tramini
(Gewürztraminer)
In Hungary it is the spicy version of this grape that is
better known. When ripe, the fruit is reddish in colour, making a wine that is
golden yellow even in youth. It has an intense fragrance with a touch of rose
and apricot, a muscat-like aroma. Except in Somlo, the wine's acids are mellow
rather than pronounced. While it can handle some residual sugar, it is nicer
when dry or semi-dry. The taste recalls lychee and cinnamon. It is grown in
several regions across Hungary.
Muskotály (Muscat)
Sárga Muskotály
(yellow muscat or muscat de lunel) is more elegant than Ottonel. Both varieties
have an opulent, perfumed bouquet reminiscent of orange blossoms and contrary to
popular belief they possess excellent if not very long-lived acids. When
overripe, it produces a lovely dessert wine and can be found as the third
ingredient of Aszú wines. At its best in cooler areas like
Tokaj.
Szürkebarát (Pinot gris)
The ripe grapes are purplish red,
making a wine that is pale gold in colour. When it has a high sugar content, it
produces a naturally sweet wine, but its genuine aromas and flavours are best
displayed in its dry version. Crisp and distinctive, the Hungarian version of
this grape provides an interesting dimension. At its most attractive in
Badacsony, and in the Balaton upper country.
Zöld Veltelini (Grüner
Veltliner)
Major white variety in neighboring Austria. It should deserve
more attention. It has a refreshing aroma, with the best wines resembling black
pepper and mint. It commands a plentiful range of lovely acids. In Hungary the
best Veltelinis are produced in Mocsény and the upper Balaton
country.
Irsai Olivér
A cross between Pozsonyi fehér ( white of
Pozsony) and csabagyöngye, with a muscat aroma and gentle acids. It ages fast. A
good wine for conversations.
Cserszegi Füszeres ('Cserszeg
spice')
Its wine has recently appeared as a pure varietal and achieved
fame in the UK. It is a welcome native addition to the better known Irsai for
those who like an aromatic wine.
Grapes for Red
Wine
Kadarka
A native Balkan wine, it was believed to have
been brought to Hungary by the Serbs in the 16th Century. It was extremely
popular in the 19th Century but was almost completely eliminated under
communism. It used to make an excellent red when the vines were trained low,
supported by staves only. While the wine is on the paler side owing to lower
tannins, its acids are vigorous and well balanced. In good years it shows plenty
of flavour all the way to spice. It matures well. The best known area is
Szekszárd, which has always supplied us with the best quality, too. It is one of
the key constituents of Bikaver (Bull's Blood) and is undergoing a
revival.
Kékoportó ('blue Oporto' or Portugieser)
A grape that can
only shine in its true colours in a warm climate (e.g. Villany and Szekszard),
where it offers supple delicious acids and velvety tannins. It is not a
long-lived wine in itself, usually blended with 10-20% Kekfrankos. An ideal easy
going wine for a chat. When yields are severely reduced, its barrique
interpretation can be a revelation.
Kékfrankos (Blaufrankisch)
Even
in maturity its wine is closer to purple with crimson tints than to the "warmer"
colour of a typical red wine. It can have rather hard acids, especially in cold
growing areas such as Sopron. Although low yields will result in high extract,
the wine will remains plain but straightforward and reliable. (Also known as
"Nagyburgundi.")
Zweigelt
A recent hybrid of kékfrankos and Saint
Laurent. It rarely makes a truly appreciable wine because the stocks can carry
great weight, leading to high yields, which in turn entail diluted extract. If
the yield is controlled, the wine can have good acidity, but it rarely ages
well. Planted in many areas throughout the country.
* Information courtesy of
Rohály's Wine guide