(Dunakanyar), a string of small riverside towns just north of
Budapest, is a popular excursion spot for both international travelers and
Hungarians. The name "Danube Bend" is actually a misnomer, since the river
doesn't actually change direction at this point. The Danube, which enters
Hungary from the northwest, flows in a southeasterly direction for a while,
forming the border with Hungary's northern neighbor, Slovakia. Just after
Esztergom, about 40km (25 miles) north of Budapest, the
river swings abruptly south. This is the start of the Danube Bend region. The
river then swings sharply north again just before Visegrád, and then heads south
again before reaching Vác. From Vác, it flows more or less directly south,
through Budapest and down
toward the country's Serbian and Croatian borders. The delightful towns along
the snaking Bend -- in particular, Szentendre, Visegrád, and Esztergom -- can easily be seen on day trips from Budapest since
they're all within a couple of hours of the city. The great natural beauty of
the area, where forested hills loom over the river, makes it a welcome haven for
those weary of the city. Travelers with more time in Budapest can easily make a long weekend out of a visit to the
Bend.
Getting
there... By Boat -- From April to September, boats run between
Budapest and the towns of the Danube Bend. A leisurely boat ride through the
countryside is one of the highlights of an excursion. All boats depart
Budapest's Vigadó tér boat landing, which is located in Pest between Erzsébet
Bridge and Szabadság Bridge, stopping to pick up passengers 5 minutes later at
Buda's Batthyány tér landing, which is in Buda and is also a Red line metro
stop, before continuing up the river. Schedules and towns served are
complicated, so contact MAHART, the state shipping company, at the Vigadó tér
landing Round-trip prices are 1,330 Ft ($6) to Szentendre, 1,390 Ft ($6.25)
to Visegrád, and 1,460 Ft ($6.60) to Esztergom. Children up to age 14 receive a
50% discount, and children under 4 can travel free if they don't require their
own seats. The approximate travel time from Budapest is 2 hours to
Szentendre, 3 1/2 hours to Visegrád, and 5 hours to Esztergom. If time is tight,
consider the train or bus (both of which are also considerably
cheaper). By Train -- To Szentendre -- The HÉV suburban
railroad connects Budapest's Batthyány tér with Szentendre. Trains leave daily,
year-round, every 20 minutes or so from 4am to 11:30pm. The trip takes 45
minutes. Check
suburban train schedule To Visegrád -- There's no direct train
service to Visegrád. Instead, take the train departing from Nyugati Station to
Nagymaros. The trip takes 1 hour, and there are 20 daily trains. From Nagymaros,
take a ferry (RÉV; tel. 06/80/406-611) across the river to
Visegrád. The ferry dock is a 5-minute walk from the train station. A ferry
leaves every hour throughout the day.The train-to-ferry trip is much more
enjoyable than the long, slow bus ride. Check train
schedule To Esztergom -- Seventeen trains daily make the run
between Budapest's Nyugati Station and Esztergom. The trip takes about 1 1/4
hours. Check train schedule By Bus -- Approximately 30
daily buses travel the same route to Szentendre, Visegrád, and Esztergom,
departing from Budapest's Árpád híd bus station (tel. 1/329-1450;
at the Blue line metro station of the same name). The one-way fare to Szentendre
is 282 Ft ($1.25); the trip takes about 30 minutes. The fare to Visegrád is 451
Ft ($2), and the trip takes 1 1/4 hours. To Esztergom, take the bus that travels
via a town called Dorog; it costs 563 Ft ($2.55) and takes 1 1/4 hours. The bus
that goes to Esztergom via Visegrád takes 2 hours and costs 732 Ft ($3.30) (fare
is determined by number of kilometers of travel, and this is a longer route).
Keep in mind, of course, that all travel by bus is subject to occasional traffic
delays, especially during rush hour. By Car -- From Budapest, Route 11
hugs the west bank of the Danube, taking you to Szentendre, Visegrád, and
Esztergom. Alternatively, you could head "overland" to Esztergom by Route 10,
switching to Route 111 at Dorog.
Esztergom basilica fortress Visegrád royal
castle tower of Salamon King Matthias museum Szentendre Folklor
museum (skanzen) Jewel museum