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Debrecen
the second largest city in Hungary with estimateed 200.000 inhabitants.
Debrecen is situated next to Hortobagy, on the east side of the Great Plain in Hungary. But Debrecen is not as plain as the Great Plain. Debrecen played great part of Hungarian history, and the city (usually called 'civis' city , which came from that it was a free city for a long time in history) is rich in historical buildings, historical places, and beautiful surroundings like Lake Tisza or Hortobagy. Debrecen itself has a thermal bath and entertaining aquapark, but the world famous Hajduszoboszlo thermal bath is only 25kms away.
What to see in Debrecen? Let's take a walk...
Let's begin at the Train station, which was bombed at the 2nd world war, so the building you see was built during the communist area, as you will recognize. It is not a beauty, but a good starting point. If you follow the tram line, you can take a nice walk in the downtown.
At the train station you will see the highest building in Debrecen , the 20-storey building, which originally was planned to Miskolc, but somehow it is in Debrecen now. In the communist area, the top floor units was rented by soviet soldiers, because there are a nice panoramic view to the Debrecen airport (which was a military airbase at that time).
Let's go. Next stop is the County Hall (Hajdu county).
The Secession county hall was built in 1911. The most attractive features of the ceremonial hall are Karoly Kernstok's stained glass windows depicting the seven Home-founding chieftains.
Decorated with leaf and palmette motifs and pyrogranite glaze, the building emanates harmony and vitality. The statues of two Hajduk soldiers stand on the second floor facade by the windows of the ceremonial hall.
Another representation of a Hajdu stands on the top of the ridge turret in the centre of the roof. The windows, the roof, the main entrance, the decoration and figures of the balcony are all the products of the famed Pecs Zsolnay ceramics factory.
Especially richly decorated is the meeting room adorned by the village crests of the settlements of the historic Hajdu County established in 1876. The stained glass windows depicting the seven founding chieftains of Hungary are the work of Karoly Kernstok. Although seriously damaged in World War II, the central figure, Chieftain Arpad, has been fully restored and enhances the dignity of the hall. The artistic value of the windows is significant.
As you go further on the main (Piac str) street, you can see old trader houses on both side (from 19th century), on the left side you will see the Old Reformed Church, called Truncated Church
This is the oldest Reformed church in Debrecen. Since the mid 17th century there has always been an ecclesiastical building on this site. The 18th-century Baroque church was renovated in a neo-Romantic style in 1876.
Following many hardships in the 16th century the 17th-century church burnt down in the summer of 1719. In the spring of 1720 the foundations of the new church were laid onto oak grids because of the deep, swampy ground. In the same year the cross vaulting of this three-aisle church hall was completed. Construction of the tower also started in 1720 but the four-storey, onion domed steeple was finished only in 1726.
The masterly woodwork of the Rococo pulpit and the soundboard originates from 1790. The gallery on the north wing was built in the same year in order to use space more economically. Almost a hundred years later, in 1876, the church was reconstructed in a neo-Romanesque style according to a Romantic concept. Originally of a Baroque style, the church exterior is determined to this day by this 19th-century adaptation.
At the same time the stonewall around the church was pulled down and a main entrance cut into the tower from the Market street (Piac str) side. Entering the nave by this porch, fifteen steps lead down to the hall thus giving an idea of the nearly two-metre difference in level of the surrounding streets, as compared to the level when the church nave was built. Also in 1876, the walls were strengthened from the outside with the help of buttresses. The onion dome was torn down by a 1909 tempest. After that the steeple's original shape was never restored but it was altered in the manner of a bastion, hence the name: Truncated Church.
The first public protest against Austrian imperial absolutism following the failure of the 1848-1849 freedom fight was voiced in this church on the 11th January 1860. A memorial tablet displayed on the wall commemorates this event.
In the winter season from 16th September to 30th April the church can be visited upon prior arrangement.
On the opposite side of the main str, there is the City Hall
The classical building is one of the key icon of the city of Debrecen.The former City Hall was built in 1531, this new building was ready at 1843.
If you go into the street next to the City Hall, you will see the Csokonai Theatre.
This Romantic-style theatre building was erectet between 1861 and 1865. By the early 20th century, following the addition of new boxes, it seated 600 people. The theatre has housed an opera company since 1952.
The building's facade is ornamented with the figures of two muses, Melpomene and Terpsikhore, and with the statues of six famous Hungarian poets who were connected to the theatre.
Back to the main street, you will arrive to the renewed Kossuth square, which is now the most beautiful squares in Debrecen with flowers, fountains. There you see the famous Golden Bull Hotel.
On Kossuth Square you can see, the most known building the Great Reformed Church.
Built between 1805 and 1820, the Classical-style Great Church is the symbol of Debrecen and Hungarian Reformation. The dethronement of the Habsburgs' was declared here on the 14th April 1849. more about 1848/49 revolution...
Building work started under the supervision of architect Mihaly Pechy, who also designed the Reformed College here, but was subsequently assumed by Jozsef Tallherr. The 55-metre long building's 15 metre-wide nave stands on medieval foundations; the transept is 38 metres long and over 14 metres wide. The two towers stand 61 metres tall.
The monumental mass of this building sited at the end of Market Street (Piac utca) is truly an impressive sight, yet just as startling is the puritan simplicity of its spacious, vaulted interior. The richly gilded Empire pulpit is one of the most attractive of its kind in Hungary. The communion table and the pews are the work of the Debrecen master Jozsef Dohanyosi.
An unparalleled view of the town rewards those who are not afraid of exercise and take up the challenge of climbing the 260 steps leading up to the west tower. While climbing the steps visitors can also inspect the Rakoczi Bell. If there is a opportunity to hear a concert here, then jump at the chance. Listening to the recently renovated organ as its sound fills the huge space is truly an unequalled experience.
The Great Church is one of the shrines of Hungarian national history. Hungary's independence was declared here on the 14th April 1849 and Lajos Kossuth was voted as governing president. The chair Kossuth used on this occasion is a reverently preserved relic to this day.
Incorporating medieval sections as well, the Great Church is an important monument in the city's history. It is not only the symbol of Debrecen, but also symbol of Hungarian Reformation. Most recently the archaeological display of the medieval foundations of the St Andrew's Church and the Red Tower further accentuates the building's medieval roots.
Outside opening hours the church can be visited upon prior request. Opening hours might change due to services and events.
From the Kossuth square you can take a 5min extra walk to the famous Deri Museum.
If you walk along the tramline around 5 min, you can see the College building, than a few stops away the begining of the Great Forest of Debrecen.
One of the oldest conservation areas in Hungary and indeed in Europe, popular for a stroll or a rest. The 1082 hectare area of centuries old common oaks, European hornbeams and silver limes is carpeted by lily of the valley each spring.
This is what remains of the once continuous Nyirseg forests. The Great Forest was most likely named after the size of the trees rather than the area since there were much more extensive forests around the town. Often reaching heights of 25-26 metres, the largest trees of the lily of the valley-covered sandy land are the common oaks, some of them as old as 200-300 years. There are approximately 700-800 recorded species of plants growing in the area of the Great Forest.
Go through the Great Forest, and you can pass the thermal bath and aquapark of Debrecen, and arrive to the last stop of our journey the University of Debrecen.
The neo-Baroque university building was constructed between 1927 and 1930. Monumental yet intimate, the French-style landscaped park in front of it is the most attractive of its kind in town.
The impressive main building of Debrecen University stands at the end of University Avenue, an important route connecting central Debrecen and the Great Forest.
Entering through one of the enormous doors visitors walk up a wide staircase to arrive at the balustrade running around the formal inner courtyard. Stop for a moment to sense the atmosphere of this temple of science and meeting point of the university's bustling youth. Opposite the university library, names of famous people inscribed in the walls of the first-floor corridors commemorate the traditions of higher education in Debrecen.
How to get there
By train, from Budapest Nyugati train station. Intercity trains available from Bp Check train schedule...By car, on highway M3 to Miskolc direction direct to Debrecen. (about 250kms)
Look for latest infos on M3...
Navigation in the city
Debrecen has well organized mass transit system. Based on tramline, which go round in the downtown area from the train station to university and back.
Buses and trolleys are go further into the city but mainly their route ends at the train station.
Ticket prices :
Tram and trolley : 180 HUF - 0.9usd, 0.7euro (if you bought in advance), 250 HUF - 1.1usd, 1euro at the driver
timetable for buses